How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands
1. Prepare materials
- Drywall 12.5 mm;
- PP profiles 60×27;
- profiles PN 28×27;
- profile extensions;
- single-level connectors;
- direct suspensions;
- screws 3.5×9 mm;
- screws 3.5 × 25 mm;
- dowel-nails 6 × 40 mm;
- anchor wedge 6×40 mm;
- reinforcing tape;
- hydraulic level or laser level;
- bubble level;
- chopping cord;
- metal scissors;
- drywall knife;
- putty knife.
2. Calculate the position of the false ceiling
The first step is to determine at what level the ceiling will be located. To do this, you need to find the lowest overlap point, add the thickness of the frame to it.
Using the hydraulic level, make a mark in one of the corners at an arbitrary height, and then transfer it one by one to the rest. If you have a laser level, simply turn it on and mark the horizon at each corner.
Connect all the risks in one line around the perimeter of the room with a chopping cord. Measure the distance from the reference line to the ceiling at the corners and several places along each of the walls. The smallest distance will show the lowest point.
If there is no need to specifically lower the ceiling, then mark down from the found point 40 mm: 30 for the thickness of the frame and another 10 for the gap for installation. When installing large recessed fixtures, add the height that they will protrude from the frame.
In our example, the lowest point is 1,640 mm. We descend from it by 40 mm and get the ceiling level at a distance of 1,600 mm from the reference line.
3. Mark up the frame
For proper installation, you need to accurately mark the position of all frame elements. It consists of rails mounted on the walls, where the main profiles are installed, and those, in turn, are attached to the ceiling with suspensions. Supporting profiles are mounted across the main ones, onto which drywall is directly screwed.
- guide profiles. We have already noted their position in the previous step.
- The main profiles are installed at intervals of 1200 mm along the axes. In this case, the beams extreme from the walls are located at a distance of ≤ 1170 mm.
- Hangers are mounted in increments of 650–1000 mm.
- Bearing profiles are installed every 500 mm.
For example, let’s mark a room 3.5 by 3.6 m. Three whole sheets clearly cover the entire width of the room. 1 m is not enough in length, so we will add pieces of 1 × 1.2 m to each row. According to the installation technology, the joints of adjacent sheets should go apart, in the manner of brickwork. So, we start the first row with a whole sheet, the second – with a piece, and the third – again with a whole.
Measure with a tape measure all the necessary gaps. Put marks in the right places, and then connect them in a line with a chopping cord. Distribute the suspension mounts so that there is no more than 1 m between them, and preferably less.
4. Mount the guide profiles
Fasten the PN 28 × 27 profiles along the perimeter of the room so that their lower part coincides with the previously marked line. If the wall is concrete or brick, attach the profile and mark the fixing points with a pencil. Then drill a hole with a puncher, insert a dowel through the profile and hammer the nail inside with a hammer. Guides can be fastened to wooden walls with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver without pre-drilling.
If necessary, connect the profiles end-to-end, without overlapping each other. Mounting pitch – 250-500 mm, but not less than three pieces per piece of profile.
For noise insulation, before installation on the profiles, you can stick a special sealing tape or apply silicone sealant.
5. Attach hangers
Next, at the points marked earlier, install hangers for the main frame profiles. In reinforced concrete floors – with the help of metal wedge anchors and a perforator, in wooden ones – with self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. After installation, bend the hangers down.
For sound insulation, you can also stick a sealing tape on them or coat them with silicone. An even greater effect is achieved when using special anti-vibration suspensions with elastic inserts.
6. Install the main frame profiles
Cut out the necessary pieces from the PP 60×27 profile and insert into the guides. Position them so that the centers of the beams coincide with the marks made earlier.
If the length of one profile is not enough, add an additional segment and join them together using a special connector.
7. Fix the main profiles in the same plane
To obtain a perfectly flat plane for plasterboard lining, you need to align all the beams in one line. The easiest way to do this is with a regular thread.
Raise all profiles 10-15 mm up and fix by inserting screws into the hanger holes. Pull the thread across the profiles between the walls and fasten them with self-tapping screws on the guides flush …